Replacing the Toilet

Before you get started, and rip out the old toilet, you need to pick out what new toilet you want. In selecting a new one, you want first of all to make sure you get one that is the right size. The standard distance from the wall to the sewer drain is 12 inches. If this is true of yours, most standard toilets will work. But you need to make sure the distance is not some unusual size, such as 10 or 14 inches. If so, this limits your choices a bit. Also, assess how big your bathroom is. An elongated toilet looks more contemporary and is more comfortable. But it really only works if you have a larger bathroom. If your bathroom is small, you can save space by going with a round toilet.

There are also different available for purchase. For instance, a two-piece toilet (one where the tank is bolted on the bowl's top) is friendlier to your billfold. Wall-mounted units, though, are more expensive, but it's easier to clean under and around them.

Now that you've got the toilet, switch off the water main's supply and empty the system by flushing. You may need to do this several times until the pipe work and the cistern are empty. Use a sponge to ensure all the water is removed from the bowl.

Next remove the wing nuts that hold the cistern and bowl together, they may need loosening with WD40 or similar.

Once this is done, the water line connections to the cistern tank and the wall need to be disconnected. Once that step is complete the tank can be removed from the bowl.

There are caps at the base of the toilet that also need to be removed. These too may be difficult due to corrosion and may need WD40 and pliers to prize them off. Removing the surrounding caulk at the base of the bowl with a utility knife will help too.

Now that the bowl can be lifted off the seal can be seen. To prevent leakage it is important that the correct wax seal is used. It is recommended to take the old seal to the hardware or home improvement store to be sure to purchase the correct one. Especially since some are designed with extensions for built up floors and others join back to back.

Creating a tight seal to make sure there are no leaks is vital. The seal is best a room temperature or slightly warmer. Once the seal is secured lift the new bowl back over the nuts and gently into position, rotating the bowl back and forth with create a good, snug fitting seal with no chance of leakage.

Next make sure the bowl is level with the wall and sits evenly. A level may help with this part of the process. The wing nuts for the bottom need replacing with the caps given a small smug of plumbers putty to keep them watertight. Add the tank, taking a few moments to inspect the spud washer. The wing nuts can now be replaced and the waterlines reconnected.

Once secure, the water can be turned back on and the toilet flushed several times to check for leaks and refilled. Apply more caulk around the base of the your new toilet to create a seal between it and the floor.